Как выполнить замену фильтров на дизеле Рено

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Любой автомобиль нуждается в своевременно замене фильтров на новые. Причем, новички обычно меняют чаще воздушные фильтры, а про топливные почему-то забывают. Тем самым, они обрекают движок на быстрый износ.

Воздушный фильтр

Сначала поговорим о том, как правильно устанавливать воздушный фильтр в автомобиле Рено (дизель). Почему же так столь необходима своевременная замена? К примеру, если человек выкуривает по несколько сигарет в день, то он вряд ли пробежит марафон. Точно также и мотор Рено, лишенный качественной топливно-воздушной смеси без притока чистого воздуха, не может работать на подходящей мощности. Плюс свое влияние оказывает неблагоприятная городская среда крупных мегаполисов. В таких условиях загрязнить поверхность цилиндров проще простого. В итоге это выливается в то, что автомобиль медленнее набирает нужную скорость и быстрее расходует бензин. Воздушный фильтр призван очищать воздух и создавать топливно-воздушную смесь, при которой движок будет работать как положено.

Концерн Рено в инструкции указывает, что менять фильтр следует каждые 30 тыс. км пробега. Но нужно учесть, что это при условии работы в относительно благоприятных европейских условиях. Поэтому в случае с российскими дорогами замена устройства необходима значительно чаще. Тем, кто ездит на дизельном варианте Рено, при покупке детали лучше выбирать из фильтров с обозначением MannC 3875.

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Итак, приступим, собственно, к замене фильтров… Первым делом надо отключить от системы шумоподавитель. Для этого надо избавиться от винтов, удерживающих колпачок коробки фильтра. После медленно отсоединяем трубку усилителя для тормоза. Теперь можно убирать старое и ставить новое фильтрующее устройство.

Если необходима замена фильтра на дизельном варианте автомобиля, то следует отсоединять корпус устройства немного иначе. Отвинчиваем болт датчика и отводим его в сторону. Далее надо произвести расстыковку колодки и патрубка. Для этого хомут следует раскрутить, а воздухопроводящее устройство поместить вправо или влево относительно короба. Приподнимаем его и начинаем отщелкивать удерживающие короб шпильки. Достаем конструкцию наружу.

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Теперь можно рассмотреть устройство. Мы увидим, что оно снабжено датчиком загрязнения. При установке новых фильтров его надо повернуть по стрелке. Если мы заметим, что датчик показывает уровень загрязнения хотя бы в 50%, то необходима замена. Ведь, скорее всего, фильтр забился уже где-то на 1/3.

Топливный фильтр

Рассмотрим, как дело обстоит с топливным фильтром в Рено-дизель. Дело в том, что в отличие от бензинового варианта, в дизельном фильтр находится не под днищем пассажирского сидения слева. Его установили под подкрылком колеса справа.

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Некоторые автовладельцы автомобилей Рено считают, что в любом случае надо будет снимать бампер. Но во многих случаях можно произвести замену через подкрылок, убрав колесо. Мы рассмотрим второй метод.

Убираем колесо справа и находим топливный фильтрующий элемент. Там же мы обнаружим дренаж, который применяется для слива лишней жидкости, образующейся в топливной системе.

Убираем ту часть подкрылка Рено, которая находится ближе всего к передней части авто. Потом удаляем фильтр с кронштейна. Достаточно будет слегка поднять устройство вверх. Но иногда бывает, что кронштейн «прикипел», поэтому придется немного постучать по детали чем-то тяжелым, чтобы она сдвинулась с места.

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Далее отсоединяем электропитание, подняв вверх защелку и отводя кабель назад. Находим шланг, который присоединен к патрубку. По нему дизель поступает в фильтрующее устройство. Его надо отсоединить от системы, для этого достаточно раскачать коннектор вправо-влево, а затем потянуть его на себя. Штуцер отсоединяется в последнюю очередь.

Достаем фильтр из машины. Заодно сразу делаем пометку наверху крышки, чтобы потом знать, какой стороной ставить его обратно. Берем отвертку в виде звездочки и избавляемся от винта наверху фильтра. Не лишним будет посмотреть, в каком состоянии находятся уплотнители, расположенные на выкрученном винте. Если они слишком износились и потерлись, то замена их на новые – наилучший вариант. Как правило, они идут в комплекте с новым фильтром.

Поднимаем повыше крышку фильтра и достаем старый элемент. После того, как была произведена замена, сборка выполняется в обратном порядке. После окончания сборки обязательно надо убрать колпачок из резины с трубки для дренажа и начать прокачку топлива из бака до нового фильтра. Чтобы это сделать, надо нажать на грушу, находящуюся под капотом, сразу за охлаждайкой. Нажать лучше сразу несколько раз, пока дизель не начнет литься из дренажной трубки. Теперь можно закупорить дренаж и еще пару раз надавить на грушу, чтобы создать оптимальное давление в системе.

Тестируем новый фильтр и заводим ваш Рено. Если не слышим посторонних звуков и все работает нормально, то можно ставить подкрылок и колеса на место.

Таким образом, стоит отметить, что в самостоятельной замене фильтров нет ничего сложного. Главное – придерживаться инструкции.

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