Правила самостоятельной полировки кузова машины

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Чтобы выполнить полировку, не обязательно обращаться в автомастерские и платить за это большие деньги. Если есть желание и свободное время, то все можно сделать в своем гараже с минимальными затратами и при помощи обычных инструментов.

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Полировка избавит кузов машины от небольших трещин в лакокрасочном покрытии. Если же использовать качественные материалы для работы, то это еще и создаст на поверхности защитный слой, который надолго сохранит приятный блеск, и краска под ним будет держаться максимально долго. Отметим, что при полировке снимается незначительный процент лака. То есть, если она имеет толщину примерно в сто микрон, то после процесса полировки ее останется около девяноста пяти микрон. Но если применять безабразивный метод, то краска сохранится полностью.

Если вы знаете, что такое коробка передач на ваз 2106 и как ее ремонтировать, то вы наверняка справитесь и с самостоятельной полировкой. Ведь это еще проще. Но сначала нам нужно разобраться, какие инструменты и материалы будут необходимы. Лучше всего приобрести специальную полировальную машинку. Самый доступный вариант стоит порядка тысячи рублей. Не так уж и дорого. Особенно учитывая то, что она пригодится нам не раз. Если мы хотим полировать с удобством и оперативностью, то лучше приобрести более дорогую модель с ценой минимум в 3 тыс. рублей. Но даже такая машинка окупится уже после первой полировки, так как эта услуга в автосервисах стоит примерно столько же.

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Внешний вид полировального устройства похож на крупную болгарку. На ее шпиндель нанизан диск с размером примерно в 15 сантиметров. На его поверхности расположен  «репейник», к которым присоединяется  круг для полировки. Можно использовать стандартный, идущий в комплекте к устройству, а можно приобрести его отдельно. Почти любая модель снабжена регулятором, которым изменяется скорость вращения круга. В среднем, обороты составляют от 600 и до 3 тыс. в минуту. Для качественной полировки нужны будут два круга. Первый выполняет грубую, а второй тонкую полировку. Для очищения поверхности лучше приобрести специальные салфетки, которые не оставляют разводов на поверхности.

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Стоит более подробно поговорить о полировальных кругах. Как уже было сказано, они присоединяются к полировальной машинке. Производители делают круги в основном из двух материалов: на основе шерсти и поролона. Если мы собираемся использовать абразивные средства, то подойдет круг почти из любого материала. Эксперты советуют для качественной полировки брать круги, сделанные из шерсти овцы.

В целом, шерстяные круги считаются более подходящими для данной работы. Ведь они служат дольше и зачищают поверхность быстрее. Но и стоят дороже. В защиту поролоновых кругов стоит сказать то, что они работают несколько бережнее своих шерстяных собратьев, так как имеют более мягкую поверхность. Если планируем применять неабразивные средства, то лучше всего подойдет круг из поролона, имеющий широкий рельеф.

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Нельзя брать круг, на котором засохли части старой полировальной пасты. Перед началом процедуры круг как следуют моют в теплой воде с добавлением мыла. После чего полощут обычной водой, стряхивают и дают высохнуть. Желательно вообще менять круги во время работы по мере их загрязнения.

Теперь про виды полировальных паст. Все они делятся на две ведущих категории: абразивные и неабразивные. Первые используют тогда, когда требуется снять сверху часть краски. Их используют при плачевном состоянии кузова. При этом надо быть осторожными с абразивными средствами. Дело в том, что они имеют агрессивный состав. К примеру, если долго полировать один и тот же загрязненный участок, то можно в буквальном смысле протереть его до дыры.

Среди абразивных средств выделяют грубые и тонкие. Первые используют для начальной полировки. Особенно это актуально, когда кузов старый и требуется исправить все потертости и царапины. Тонкие абразивы еще называют доводочными. Их применяют на втором этапе полировки и для поверхностей, которые еще не совсем тусклые. С определенной осторожностью можно применять и на новых машинах.

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В основе неабразивных полиролей лежит воск. Именно он создает на поверхности тонкую пленку, придавая ей легкий и приятный глазу глянец. К абразивной продукции также относятся различные пасты для сохранности блеска покрытия. Они не удалят серьезные царапины, но зато улучшат устойчивость кузовного покрытия к агрессивным моющим средствам в автосервисе и защитят его от дождя и снега.

Перед полировкой машину хорошо моют. Затем насухо вытирают и покрывают защитной полиролью. Особо рекомендуется обратить внимание на зимние полироли. Они помогут уберечь поверхность кузова не столько от снега, сколько от реагентов, которыми дорожные службы посыпают зимой дороги.

Для начала наносим на круг пасту и ставим обороты полировальной машинки в 1500. В некоторых случаях удобнее наносить полироль сразу на поверхность, чтобы по несколько раз не отвлекаться на обновление пасты на круге. Саму полировку проводим аккуратно, медленно, не нажимая на круг. Ведем его не боком, а надавливая всей поверхностью на кузов.

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Некоторые модели авто слегка «рыскают» при процессе, поэтому для удобства стоит попросить знакомого удерживать автомобиль, пока мы работаем машинкой. Особую аккуратность соблюдаем при полировке краев и углов. На данных участках полировальный круг, особенно сделанный из шерсти, может излишне врезаться в край кузова и содрать с него часть лакокрасочного покрытия.

При работе не задерживаемся на одном пространстве подолгу, чтобы не нагреть краску. Перегрев спровоцирует повреждение эмали. Причем нагреться она может как от высоких, так и от низких оборотов.

Те места, которые недоступны для машинки, надо отполировать вручную. Это также актуально для поверхностей, где есть риск испортить краску. Полировка вручную проходит с применением салфетки, на которую нанесена полироль. Вместо салфетки можно взять кусок обычной ветоши.

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