Диагностика основных неисправностей в автомобиле

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Как это ни странно, но есть такие водители, ездящие в своих автомобилях и совершенно не прислушивающиеся к звукам, которые издает их «железный конь». А ведь такой подход в корне неправильный, так как посторонний звук в автомашине – это главный симптом появившейся неисправности. Очень мало неисправностей в автомобиле, которые не сопровождаются какими-то звуковыми эффектами. Наверное, сюда можно отнести лишь перегрев двигателя и падение давления масла в системе смазки. Обо всех же других неисправностях водителя предупреждает появившийся странный звук. Объективно разобраться в звуках своей автомашины весьма непросто, так как к машине со временем привыкаешь и уже ничего не слышишь. Да и еще, звуки какого-то дефекта появляются постепенно. В связи с этим ухо водителя со временем опять-таки привыкает к этому новому звуку и не воспринимает его как угрозу.

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Давайте перейдем к разбору всевозможных стуков. Начну с одного оригинального способа. Для начала заведите мотор. Откройте моторный отсек, выньте масляный щуп и оботрите его конец чистой тряпочкой. Теперь самое интересное – округлый конец щупа вставьте в ушную раковину, а само ухо немного заверните и так удерживайте. Далее конец этой конструкции приставляйте к частям двигателя. К задней, передней части, к клапанной крышке. Поверьте, вы услышите много разных звуков, которые ранее никогда не слышали. Данный способ хорошо помогает в полевых условиях. Благодаря такой проверке автомобилист может отличить стук привода бензонасоса от стука водяной помпы, а также звук лопнувшего пальца поршня от стука изношенного шатунного подшипника и т.д.

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Слушать звуки ходовой части автомобиля лучше всего при проезде по тоннелям или в тех местах, где вы проезжаете  возле стены или сплошного забора. В обязательном случае нужно опустить стекло: звук, исходящий от автомобиля, будет отражаться от препятствий и возвращаться к вам. Такая проверка выявит проблемы не хуже чем импортный проверочный стенд.

Если вы решили самостоятельно разобраться в шумах своего автомобиля, то вам в первую очередь нужно научиться отличать частоту вращения колес от частоты вращения коленвала двигателя и еще обе эти частоты от звуков дребезжания кузова.

Наиболее распространенным дефектным шумом колес на отечественных дорогах является некий звук – «бу-бу-бу», который зачастую еще и отдает в руль. Причиной такого шума является появившаяся «шишка» на колесе. Возникают такие дефекты вследствие быстрого переезда через колдобины или «лежачие полицейские». Еще один популярный вариант появления такого стука – «восьмерка» покрышки. Проявляется не только звуком и биением руля, но и повышенной вибрацией кузова.

man using laptop computer in car

Колеса автомобиля можно элементарно проверить своими силами. Для этого нужно поднять каждое колесо домкратом и покрутить его рукой, ну или двигателем, если оно является ведущим. При вращении колеса вы должны осмотреть его сзади или спереди – главное проводить осмотр вдоль оси колеса. Сначала смотрите не на саму покрышку, а на металлический диск, его несоосность можно увидеть невооруженным взглядом. После этого обратите свой взор на покрышку. Так импортная авторезина будет вращаться практически незаметно, без какой-либо вибрации. Отечественная резина, даже новая, будет грешить небольшим дефектом в пределах 2 – 5 миллиметров. Если вы видите, что борт резины ходит в большем диапазоне, то советуем ее заменить. Таким образом определяется осевое биение автоколеса. Радиальное биение определяется аналогичным способом, только наблюдение за колесами нужно проводить сбоку. После этого можете осмотреть колесо на наличие «шишек». Колесо с таким дефектом нужно обязательно заменить. Иногда колеса с «шишками» ремонтируют, устанавливая изнутри на шишку заплатку. Но мы не рекомендуем этого делать, так как устранить «шишку» полностью просто невозможно. Если же вы осмотрели свои колеса и не нашли вышеуказанных дефектов, но при этом вы все равно отчетливо слышите биение в руле при движении на скорости около 100 км/час, значит имеет место дисбаланс колес. Другими словами у вас неравномерно распределена масса колеса. Данный дефект весьма неприятный и дискомфортный, но устраняется он достаточно быстро. Нужно заехать на любой шиномонтаж, где вам снимут колеса и отбалансируют их на специальном стенде. Пока колесо находится в подвешенном состоянии, нужно проверить состояние подшипников ступицы. Возьмитесь за бока колеса и покачайте его назад – вперед. Если вы слышите стук, значит, подшипник вышел из строя.

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После осмотра колес переходим к амортизаторам. Стук этой детали соответствует проезду по каждой выбоине и ямке. Если стук глухой, то, значит, резиновые втулки находятся еще в рабочем состоянии, но их нужно незамедлительно менять. Если затянуть с заменой, то вместо копеечного ремонта, вы получите неисправность, устранение которой хорошо ударит по вашему кошельку. Если же вы уже слышите металлический стук от амортизаторов, то в итоге вы можете хорошенько потратиться на ремонт кронштейнов или проварке днища автомобиля. Сами амортизаторы редко когда стучат. Это происходит только при обрыве штока и вытекании из них жидкости.

Автомобильные шаровые опоры могут стучать при движении через рельсы, по череде крупных выбоин. Отметим, что на очень больших выбоинах или неровностях они не должны стучать. Пальцы рулевых тяг также не будут стучать если вы двигаетесь по выбоинам в прямом направлении, а вот проявляются они только в том случае, если колеса вывернуты в какую-то сторону и чем больше они вывернуты, тем сильнее стук.

Далее переходим к неисправностям двигателя, которые также сопровождаются различными шумовыми эффектами. К таким шумам относится стук шатунных и коренных подшипников, стук цепи распределительного вала, а также стуки подшипников генератора, водяного насоса и щелканье клапанов.

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Самый распространенный стук в двигателе – это щелканье клапанов. Бывает, что стучит один клапан, но встречаются такие агрегаты, в которых сразу могут стучать два, а то и три клапана. Стук сухой, металлический, хорошо слышен в верхней части двигателя. При движении этот стук не меняет ни громкости, ни тона. Устраняется такой стук в ремонтной мастерской. Опытный механик избавит вас от этой проблемы очень быстро. Кстати, на многих станциях технического обслуживания регулировка клапанов входит в комплекс проведения ТО автомобиля.

Еще один популярный стук в моторе – звон или шелест цепи привода распределительного вала. Так как цепь находится в передней части двигателя, то и шум исходит из этой части. Правда он может быть разной тональности – от звонкого металлического шелеста и до неприятного лязганья, когда цепь уже окончательно провиснет. Главный симптом данной неисправности – изменение тональности стука при увеличении или снижении оборотов двигателя. В некоторых автомобилях цепь можно подтянуть самостоятельно, для этого нужно действовать строго по эксплуатационному руководству к вашему авто. Если вы не уверены в своих силах, то лучше обратитесь к специалистам, которые в течение пяти минут устранят эту небольшую неисправность.

Наиболее дорогостоящие стуки – это биение коренных и шатунных подшипников коленчатого вала. Появление таких шумов говорит о необходимости проведения капитального ремонта агрегата. Чтобы распознать такие стуки необходимо открутить крышку маслозаливной горловины и приникнуть к отверстию ухом. Если вы услышите четкий металлический стук из недр двигателя, значит точно пришло время ремонтировать мотор. Еще один симптом – стук коренного подшипника часто сопровождается падением давления масла в системе.

Если вы являетесь владельцем заднеприводного автомобиля семейства ВАЗ и слышите при трогании и резком переключении передач звонкие щелчки из-под днища автомобиля – значит, пора менять крестовину карданного вала.

Вибрация кузова при торможении. Дефект, который часто проявляется на жигулевских тормозных цилиндрах. Их можно разобрать, очистить специальной шкуркой зеркала цилиндров и заново собрать.

Если вы при вхождении в поворот слышите неприятный хруст, то у вас проблема с подшипником ступицы переднего колеса или с ШРУСом (если это переднеприводный автомобиль).

Частенько при проезде по выбоинам стучат и скребут колесные колпаки, различные декоративные насадки и многое другое, что устанавливают водители для красоты. Попробуйте демонтировать лишние детали и попробовать проехаться без них.

В завершение нашей статьи хотелось бы сказать пару слов о весьма неприятных, но в то же время и неопасных шумах в автомобиле – дребезжании пластиковых деталей салона и приборной панели. Самыми шумными в этом отношении автомобилями являются «Москвичи» а также ВАЗы («восьмерки», «девятки» и «девяносто девятые»). Конечно, можно ловить каждый скрежет и стук в салоне своими руками, прижимая разные детали обивки и проверяя, не пропал ли стук. Затем место дребезжания намазывается мастикой или заклеивается какой-то «жвачкой» — но это не является выходом из положения, это всего лишь некие полумеры.

Кардинальный способ лишь один – купить листы самоклеящейся листовой мастики, демонтировать с автомобиля панель приборов, дверные обивки, сидения и все имеющиеся пластиковые детали. Затем вырезая из этой листовой мастики разнообразные полоски, кружочки и прочие фигуры, заклеить все внутренние поверхности кузова. После этих действий вы должны посадить на заднее сидение человека с ручкой и блокнотом. Покатайте его по брусчатке и выбоинам, пускай он записывает все появляющиеся стуки и скрипы, ну а вы потом их должны будете устранить. После этого проверьте, не стучат ли двери в районе замка. Если люфт имеется, то нужно взять отвертку, открыть дверь и ослабить винты, расположенные на приемной скобе замка. Затем возьмите молоток и легкими ударами сместите приемную скобу вглубь салона на величину люфта. Затяните винты и проверьте, стук должен пропасть.

После такой доработки вы получите совсем иной автомобиль, который по шумоизоляции не будет уступать даже дорогой иномарке.

 

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