Самостоятельная замена бампера на ВАЗ-2110

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Из истории создания модели ВАЗ-2110

ВАЗ-2110 смело можно назвать классической моделью отечественного автомобилестроения. Машина, которую россияне прозвали «десятка», должна была еще в 1992 году удивлять население нашей страны, но, к сожалению, события лихих девяностых отразились на всех сферах деятельности нашего отечества. А посему новый автомобиль сошел с конвейера завода только в 1995 году.

«Десятка», с выходом ее в свет, не дала никаких шансов выжить своим конкурентам, так как она заняла место на самой высокой ступени российского автомобильного производства до тех пор, пока ее не вытеснила с отечественного автомобильного рынка «Лада Приора». В 2007 году Ваз 2110 была снята с производства, однако право на выпуск данной модели машины и по сей день сохранились у ряда заводов, находящихся за рубежом.

Модель, на протяжении ее существования, регулярно улучшалась как заводом, на котором она выпускалась, так и народными мастерами, которые постоянно пытались сделать автомобиль удобнее для водителя и пассажиров.

Несмотря на то, что сегодня существуют усовершенствованные модели, основанные на десятой серии автомобилей (спортивная версия — ВАЗ 21107, купе — Ваз 21106, модели «Консул» и «Премьер»), имеет место быть общий минус – недоработанный внешний дизайн.  Разработчики, к сожалению, не учли фактор безопасной езды автомобиля по отечественным дорогам. Единственное, что ими было модернизировано – система тормозов.

Главные особенности

Как было изложено выше, автомобиль ВАЗ 2110 был в эпоху 90-х годов новым витком в развитии автомобильной промышленности в нашей стране.

Какие же изюминки в новой модели автомобиля увидели удивленные водители и пассажиры?

1. Руль машины был переработан и специально подогнан для этой серии выпуска в соответствии с международными нормами.

2. Корпус сооружен из цельного металла и имел четыре двери

3. Багажное отделения «Десятки» стало намного больше, вместительнее.

4. Открывание и закрывание дверей не издавало привычного треска.

5. Появилась возможность снятия амортизаторов, не прибегая к помощи специальных смотровых ям, избегая посещения станций технического обслуживания

Дельные советы владельцам «Десятки»

При наличии постороннего звука в коробке передач необходимо в ближайшее время удостовериться в наличии достаточного количества масла;

Для передвижения по отечественным трассам лучше заменить резину с конусовидным профилем;

В России есть народные умельцы, которые не ждут новых решений инженеров-машиностроителей, а сами пытаются улучшить функционал и общий дизайн автомобиля.

Безопасность

Лет восемь назад машина была испытана на прочность. Данная модель проходила тест на аварии, и достойно его прошла, показав вполне приличные результаты. Даже сами испытатели не ожидали таких прекрасных показателей.

В Сети имеется ролик о прохождении испытаний, посмотрев который, можно сделать выводы о прочности машины – после полученного удара в результате искусственно созданной аварии дверь возле водителя и лобовое стекло остались полностью целыми. Немного погнулась лишь стойка.

Единственный минус в том, что дверь в результате удара ушла на несколько сантиметров назад, ее невозможно было открыть. Вследствие этого, водитель был вынужден покидать автомобиль через дверь пассажира.

Как показал анализ испытания, у шофера, пристегнутого ремнями безопасности, при наступлении реальной опасной ситуации на дороге, вполне есть шансы остаться в живых.

В итоге теста десятка набрала четыре балла. Это приличный результат! Конечно, есть над чем подумать в плане дальнейшей усовершенствования машины.

Основное предназначение бампера

Основной материал для изготовления бампера — стекловолокно. Сам бампер установлен не только для красоты, но и служит для сохранения аэродинамики автомобиля.

При изготовлении бампера стекловолокно подвергается пропитке смолой на основе полиэфира, а после того – эпоксидкой с добавлением красителя (гелькоутом).

Если сравнивать стекловолокно и пластмассу, то первый материал более надежен и устойчив к перепадам температур внешней среды, а также бампер, сделанный из него можно отремонтировать.

Красятся обвесы точно также, как и двери, изготовленные из металла.

Процесс покраски – следующий:

  • грунтовать поверхность;
  • использование напонителей;
  • непосредственно, покраска.

Вообще, если следовать инструкции по эксплуатации автомобиля, то процесс замены бампера разработчик рекомендует делать в специализированных мастерских. Но гораздо экономнее и практичнее сделать это своими руками.

При вашем желании модернизировать «десятку» вы должны учесть цену комплектующих ее запчастей. Сами по себе запчасти дороговаты, и серьезный ремонт выгоднее доверить профессиональным мастерам.

Частые проблемы, возникающие у владельцев ВАЗа 2110 — поломка бампера. Ниже мы предлагаем ознакомиться с пошаговой инструкцией. Если вы освоите этот процесс, то сможете, не тратя лишних денег из собственного бюджета, успешно исправить поломку.

Как правильно снять передний бампер на ВАЗ-2110

Первым делом, нам необходимо убрать подкрылки. Для этого аккуратно извлекаем регистрационный номер, противотуманное оборудование и подкрылки.

Шаг 1.

В задней части подкрылков имеется крепящая бампер гайка. С помощью накидного ключа на «10» ее необходимо отвинтить.

Шаг 2.

Не отходя от подкрылков отвинчиваем пару саморезов, используя 8 головку. Саморезы находятся в нижней части.

Шаг 3.

В верхней части подкрылка находятся еще два винта, которые также необходимо выкрутить, используя тот же инструмент.

Шаг 4.

Не забудьте выкрутить саморез, находящийся в передней части подкрылка.

Шаг 5.

Используя отвертку «Крест» откручиваем 3 самореза в низу подкрылка.

Шаг 6.

Теперь без труда можно снять подкрылок.

Как правильно извлечь передний бампер ВАЗ-2110

Под регистрационным номером вы сможете найти пару болтов, которые крепят облицовку бампера. Имея под рукой два ключа 13 размера, откручиваем их.

Шаг 1.

На месте крепления бампера к кузову, используя торцевой ключ 10 размера откручиваем кузовные кронштейны

Затем, головкой на «10» освобождаем о шпильки креплений кронштейнов облицовки бампера к кузовному кронштейну.

Шаг 2.

Аккуратно вытаскиваем с балки облицовку бампера.

Шаг 3.

Правый боковой кронштейн облицовки бампера, который необходимо снять с помощью отвертки крестообразной формы открутив 3 самореза, крепящих кронштейн к самой облицовке.

Шаг 4.

Аккуратно извлекаем бампер

Шаг 5.

Будьте внимательны! Кронштейны отличаются друг от друга, и поставить один вместо другого не представляется возможным.

Чтобы снять саму балку бампера необходимо головкой на «13» отвернуть две гайки, крепящие ее к кронштейнам справа и слева.

Шаг 6.

С кронштейнов снимаем саму балку.

Шаг 7.

На примере кронштейна, находящегося с правой стороны показано снятие переднего кронштейна бампера. С помощью головки на «13» откручиваем два болта.

Шаг 8.

Откручиваем гайку крепящую кронштейн к кузову.

Шаг 9.

Снимаем кронштейн.

Шаг 10.

Внимание! Помимо того, что гайка, крепящая левый передний кронштейн, фиксирует бампер, она также удерживает кронштейн датчика, считывающего температуру окружающего воздуха.

Как вы могли заметить, замена переднего бампера ВАЗ-2110 – процедура совсем не сложная и не такая уж трудоемкая. Но все же, будьте аккуратны.

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